A couple of nights in Glasgow has been on my wishlist for some years and a birthday celebration was the ideal time to enjoy 48-hours in this handsome Scottish city. Plans were hatched and the decision was made to leave the campervan at home. Leaving our almost-blue campervan behind is hard and feels disloyal but one of the reasons for down-sizing our ‘van was a hankering to try other sorts of holidays again. So we patted it’s bonnet, gently explained and planned a train and hotel-based trip. It would be interesting to see how it compared to life on the road.
Train & Hotel
The train is an easy way for us to get to Glasgow as Lancaster is on the main West Coast Line. We had pre-booked cheap seats and while we ate our picnic lunch and read our novels we sped over the border and we pulled into the stunning Glasgow Central Station on time.
We had chosen a hotel a hop and a skip from Glasgow Central. Grasshoppers Hotel has a strange name but excellent reviews and we booked two nights online. The hotel is on the top floor of one of the buildings around Glasgow Central and climbing the stairs to the hotel [there is a lift] we passed drab Scotrail offices and seriously started to doubt our decision. We needn’t have worried, as soon as you reach the hotel floor you are in hushed luxury. Our high-ceiling room was stylish, warm and not a whisper of train engines reached us. The only quirk was the odd sliding door into the bathroom.
As well as tea and coffee making in your room, this hotel has a special feature. The welcoming lounge overlooks the vast glass roof of the railway station. Here you can browse books, make drinks and pick up a slice of cake, with vegan options always available or a bowl of ice-cream. When we asked if these were homemade, we were told the night staff make these delicious cakes in the wee hours.
Finding Free Things to do in Glasgow
It was a sunny afternoon as we strode out across the city to Glasgow Necropolis. This large Victorian garden cemetery sits on a hill near Glasgow Cathedral and on the edge of the city centre. The tombs and grave monuments compete for attention with their intricate carvings and statues and are evidence of the flourishing economy of 19th century Glasgow.
Later in the evening we strolled around the city and found a bar for drinks before retiring to our hotel room with a money-saving picnic.
The next morning, fuelled by a good hotel breakfast, we caught a train to Pollokshaws West. There are regular trains for this 30 minutes journey and we were soon walking through Pollok Country Park, enjoying the frosty morning air. We followed The White Cart Water through this former estate to the walled and woodland gardens around Pollok House before swinging around to The Burrell Collection. Some of the 9,000 objects that make up The Burrell Collection are displayed in an airy and modern museum in Pollok Country Park that is free to enter. The collection has something for everyone and includes Chinese art, medieval stained glass and tapestries. We concentrated on some of the paintings by French artists including Manet, Cezanne and Degas and my favourite without doubt, for it’s colour and life, was Degas’ The Red Ballet Skirts. The Thinker by Auguste Rodin was also a treat to have the chance to see.
Back in the city centre we walked by the River Clyde to Glasgow Green, a large urban park. We were last here on a chilly and wet day in 2021 listening to the speakers at the end of the march during COP26. This time we had chance to wander and visit The People’s Palace, the city’s museum of popular history, where we learnt about living in Glasgow tenements and taking your laundry to the communal steamies. And all for free!
Not Everything was Free
One of the reasons for coming to Glasgow was The Purple Cat Cafe and it was here we headed for tea and fun with cats. While we ate cakes, cats of all colours and ages raced across bridges above our heads, hurtled down walkways, slept in fluffy baskets, played with toys and rubbed around our legs. I laughed blissfully.
That evening we ate at Mono Cafe Bar just off Argyle Street, another wonderful place that gave an unpromising first impression. We had sauntered by this cafe bar during the daytime, it wasn’t open and frankly it looked gloomy and univiting. But, in the same way that the floor of the hotel surprised us, at night the lights were lit, the venue came alive and we entered a warm and welcoming space that served delicious, hearty and creative vegan food. I cannot recommend this place enough and it was the perfect birthday treat.
Our last morning in Glasgow took us to The Tenement House, a National Trust property with an astonishing story. This middle-class tenement takes you back to the first half of the 20th century when Miss Agnes Toward, a shorthand typist, lived here with her mother and later alone. As an independent woman, she valued her possessions and never de-cluttered. When she died she left a unique personal archive in a flat that had been empty for ten years while she was in hospital. The flat is a treasure trove of old cards, china dogs, mantle clocks and antique wallpaper. Agnes Toward’s story has occupied my mind since and I think of her often. If you get the chance, do visit.
Comparing Hotel & Campervan
As we sat on the train returning south I pondered on how this trip had compared to one in a campervan. Although it is possible to visit cities with a campervan and we have done this many times from York to Pisa, for a couple of days exploration a city centre hotel is a hard act to beat. We could crash in our room for a couple of hours between sightseeing, we didn’t have to carry lots of kit around and the sights were mostly on our doorstep. Being in the hotel meant we enjoyed some of Glasgow’s nightlife too. Much as I love our campervan, for this sort of short break the hotel wins for convenience.
Travelling to and from Glasgow by train was effortless and relaxing and cost the two of us £38 return [with a railcard], booked about a month in advance. Driving the 300+ miles would have cost around £50 just for diesel.
Of course, at £90/night for bed and breakfast it was more expensive than any campsite we’ve stayed on. We did save money by minimising our eating out and finding free things to do. In 2024, a night at the Caravan and Motorhome Club Strathclyde Country Park Club Campsite would be around £30/night at the same time of year [but our hotel was much quieter than this surrounded-by-motorways campsite]. Even if you add the cost of public transport in and out of the city and try and cost the impossible-to-price convenience, the hotel can’t be described as a budget option … but it was my birthday!