Back on the road again

A Clackmannan Walk & Culross from Highland Gateway Campsite

It was a neighbour who first inspired me to visit Culross, ‘Have you been?’ he asked when we bumped into him on our street. We hadn’t but I made a cursory note in my head after he described the exceptionally pretty village. This top tip may have gone unheeded but, as is often the case, Culross turned up again to nudge my easily distracted brain. We were catching up on the BBC programme Villages by the Sea [gentle viewing for when you have had enough of the news and murder mysteries] and as irresistable views of Culross flashed across our screen a possible visit became a certainty.

Looking for a campsite nearby, Highland Gateway Glamping and Caravanning popped up in my searches and reading the good reviews we booked. Happily, and again, as often happens, a campsite that we have booked merely for its convenient location turned out to offer much more than a useful overnight.

If you like campsites that are small and have wide open views, then this is one for you. The pitches at Highland Gateway look over agricultural fields on all sides, with the range of hills called the Ochils as a northerly backdrop. The site only has eight serviced hard-standing pitches. There are two small sanitary blocks with two showers and three toilets between them and there is a sink for washing-up and also two pods for non-campers. There is a low rumble of traffic from the busy roads off the bridges over the Forth, but nothing that distracts from the feeling of space.

Clackmannan

It was a sunny afternoon when we arrived and picking up a leaflet for Heritage Walks in Clackmannan we realised we had time to fit in the 5.6km Kennet Walk that connected to the grassy lane that ran by the campsite.

Leaving the campsite, we were soon in woodland, the sweet scent of flowering bluebells and soothing birdsong surrounding us. Climbing gently uphill and skirting a field we reached a viewpoint over Clackmannan before walking through more woodland into the town. We were in the centre of the small town of Clackmannan in under an hour.

The stone belfry tower on Clackmannan’s main street is what remains of the 16^th century Tolbooth and is the centre of the town along with the Mercat Cross. Next to these, on a block, stands the stone (or Clack) of Mannan (from the Celtic god Manau) which gave Clackmannan its unusual name.

After sauntering around the historic part of Clackmannan, we returned along a minor road with the romantic name of Lookaboutye Brae. More tree-lined paths led us to the walls around the site of the former Kennet House where we picked up the lane back to Highland Gateway.

Culross

Our main goal, the village of Culross on the banks of the River Forth, was an easy 15-minute drive from the campsite. Culross has two car parks but it is a popular destination so it is worth arriving early. If you have bikes there are good cycle paths to the village from the campsite.

In Culross we walked along the shore and on narrow cobbled streets among the traditional houses, many owned by the National Trust. The sun was breaking through the morning mist and the sprawling Grangemouth Refinery across the river shimmered in the light.

We had coffee and scones in a friendly cafe full of chattering regulars and then explored further. Climbing Haggs Wynd we reached the hanging gardens viewpoint and could quickly see why this village is loved by film crews, including Outlander, as we soaked in the centuries. We climbed further to the ruins of what was a large abbey in the 13th century.

In contrast to the abbey, the houses and cottages of Culross from the 16th and 17th centuries have been preserved and restored. Shades of coral pink and creamy custard contrast with the white-walled cottages and floral planters line the streets. The attractive ochre-coloured buildings known as Culross Palace, were a wealthy merchant’s house, and are now a National Trust property. Culross Palace can be visited but check opening times as filming events can disrupt these.

The Campsite

Highland Gateway Glamping and Caravanning, Broadcarse Farm, Clackmannan, FK10 4BW.

The campsite is adult only [18 years and over] and accepts a maximum of four adults on pitches. The site is open every month except January. Dogs are welcome [maximum of three].

Vegan Peanut Butter Protein Pancakes

Over the past year I have been playing with recipes to create breakfast pancakes at home for our weekend breakfast. We are not vegan but we don’t eat eggs or cows milk at home [except in cheese]. I was looking for a protein-rich breakfast that we would enjoy and with tweaks this now works well for us.

With a few minutes prep the day before these are soon ready. In the morning they are piping hot by the time my partner comes home from our local papershop [old school I know!]

This recipe makes two large pancakes

The day before

2 teaspoons of chia seeds mixed with about 3 tablespoons of boiled water, stirred and put in the fridge. This becomes a glutinous binding agent, substituting eggs.

We have a hand blender but you could use a food processor. Combine these four ingredients. I mix them in the cylinder provided with our hand blender, you could mix them in your food processor bowl. This will save time and effort with scales in the morning:

90g gram flour
60g your usual peanut butter, crunchy or smooth
8g baking powder (about 1/2 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

In the morning you will need

120ml [or maybe a little more] of your favourite milk. I use oatmilk but soyamilk would give extra protein and cows milk is fine too.

Add the chia seed ‘egg’ to the gram flour and peanut butter ingredients and pour in approximately 120ml of milk. Blend together until everything is incorporated and add a little more milk if you need [I usually do]. You are looking for a thick batter that reluctantly pours, not something too runny. If, like me, you add too much milk one week, the pancakes will be fine, I found they just took longer to cook.

I use a Neverstick 20cm frying pan and the pancakes don’t stick at all in this. You will have your favourite pan.

Heat the frying pan with a knob of vegan margarine or oil.

When the pan is hot, spoon and pour half the pancake mixture into the frying pan and spread out to create a circle. Leave the heat on a medium to low setting [everyone’s hob varies]. It will take a few minutes to cook without burning. The pancake is ready for turning when bubbles pop on the surface of your mixture.

Gently ease a spatula around the edge and underneath the pancake and turn it over and cook the other side for about two minutes. I usually turn the heat down a little for this part.

Repeat with your second pancake.

We usually eat these with maple syrup for some sweetness and sliced banana. For even more protein, Greek yoghurt would be good and you could add more nuts and other fruit. You will come up with your own favourite toppings.

You can freeze them.

I am usually too busy eating to photograph my pancakes so the image above does not show my actual pancakes which are usually more untidy and less photogenic!

8 Outer Hebrides Campsites Reviewed

In May 2026 we travelled through the Outer Hebrides. We watched golden eagles on Lewis in the north and crossed the hills of Harris to camp by its sweeping beaches. Sailing to North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist we heard and saw the rare corncrake and wandered through flower-rich machair under boundless skies. Barra, the most southerly of the Outer Hebrides showcased local producers in its community shop and gave us wind, rain and sunshine on our hill walk. Visiting the Outer Hebrides was fascinating and relaxing.

We used campsites every night and stayed two or three nights in most of the campsites below. The campsites were all around £30/night, in addition some of the sites charged for showers.

Many of the campsites were small and family-run or were income generation for community development trusts. This meant that the money we spent during our visit to the islands benefitted islanders and stayed local.

Laxdale Holiday Park, Stornoway – This small, family-run and friendly campsite uses every space possible for pitches. It is on the edge of Stornoway and about a 30-minutes walk to the town centre [there is a bus service from the main road five minutes walk away]. The site is popular and it is worth booking if you want to stay here. Our pitch was the best on the site, with trees on one side and grass on the other and a view across countryside to the sea. There are other good pitches but some are on sloping gravel and concrete. The site is well kept and we found the showers to be good with continuous flow and hot water. The windows and doors are kept open to keep the facilities aired and there was no heating on when we were there, so it might be bracing. The washing up is indoors. Stornoway is certainly worth a visit to see the harbour and castle and the larger supermarkets are here.

Eilean Fraoich Campsite, Shawbost, Lewis – We received a friendly welcome at this family-run site. The site is level and grassy with wide-open views and the pitches are fitted in like a jigsaw around the buildings. The campsite is in a peaceful crofting township, with the coast about 30 minutes walk away. The shower were continuous flow and adjustable temperature and cost 50p for four minutes. The washing up is in an indoor kitchen and there are some separate unheated bathrooms. This campsite asked that you didn’t put washing out on a Sunday. The site is around 20 minutes drive from the main Calanais Standing Stones site and the museum at Geàrrannan Blackhouse Village is around 15-minutes drive.

Pairc Niseaboist, West Harris – This site is one run by the West Harris Trust, who work to develop the area’s economy and housing and support the community. We liked the space between pitches and the sea view on the campsite. The online booking system worked well and enabled us to choose our pitch. The level area has just seven pitches and a smart pre-fab with two bathrooms and a kitchen. This was kept spotlessly clean. The electric shower wasn’t powerful but was continuous and with adjustable temperature. The sea is just across the quiet road from the site and you can walk around the small headland and to MacLeod’s Stone with views over white sandy beaches. There is a good community cafe and gift shops next to the camping area.

Balranald Camping, North Uist – This was the largest campsite we stayed at in the Outer Hebrides. It is well-run by a family and is mostly level. It sits within an RSPB reserve and so is perfect for bird watchers. There are farm buildings along one side of the site and we had some noise from the cattle and machinery but otherwise it was peaceful. There are two small modern facilities blocks where showers are £1 for 7.5mins. The cubicles are just big enough and the water is continuous flow with temperature control. The walk around the bay and the headland is spectacular, taking in white beaches, machair and dunes and you will see plenty of birds. We went to sleep to the sound of corncrakes. The campsite has a food truck at lunch times with drinks, meals and cakes. Next door is something I’ve not seen before, inside a large industrial-looking building there is a help-yourself farm shop with vending machines selling a limited selection of food and snacks.

Otters Edge, Benbecula – This level site has marked pitches and a beach just beyond the dunes. The owners are friendly and welcoming. The dated facilities block is kept clean but there is no heating and little natural light. The temperature in the showers is not adjustable and they are the push-button type. There is a kitchen with a washing up sink. The Dark Island Hotel is just five minutes walk away and serves delicious food. The Co-op is about 45 minutes walk away. We enjoyed a good walk along the coast and on inland lanes and the island bus goes past the site a few times a day.

Kilbride Campsite, South Uist – This site is on a slightly sloping grassy field. It is popular with tents as well as campervans and there is a hostel and cafe alongside, making it a busy site. The facilities are modern and the showers have adjustable temperature control and are continuous flow but they do have the dreaded shower curtain! They weren’t the cleanest showers in the Outer Hebrides but this was partly because the site is so busy. The small kitchen with two washing up sinks got particularly hectic at times. Behind our campervan there were corncrakes calling in the scrub and we were thrilled to spot one here. We took the bus to Eriskay from the campsite [the bus stop is about 20 minutes walk away] and we walked around the island, shopped in the village shop and had drinks and food sitting outside the Am Politician pub with a sea view. The Polochar Inn is about 30 minutes walk away from the campsite but we didn’t try this.

Barra Sands, Barra – Another friendly Hebridean welcome at this campsite. The site is grassy and terraced with slightly lumpy ground. Some pitches have sea views. The facilities are two showers and two toilets each for men and women and a washing-up sink in each block. The showers are £1 for five minutes and have adjustable temperature control and are continuous. Everything is kept clean and tidy. A gate from the site takes you to the beach in minutes. We walked over Dun Sgurabhal on a damp day and along the fabulous stretch of sand backed by dunes, returning by the airport cafe.

Wavecrest Campsite, Barra – This grassy site on the west coast of Barra has narrow pitches, most with a slight slope, and sea views over the Atlantic. The new facilities are modern and clean, with impressive individual toilets and showers. However, £2 for a five minute shower each was more than we were prepared to pay, although the cubicles are roomy enough to share! The pleasant kitchen with windows overlooking the sea has washing up, a book exchange and wi-fi. Walking to the nearby chapel and burial ground across the machair is a perfect in the Hebridean evening light.

Impressions of the Outer Hebrides from our Campervan Trip

‘Some travel writer [not me] wrote that May was the best time to visit the Outer Hebrides as there are no midges, so now it is our busiest time,’ a campsite owner told me. We were on the Atlantic coast of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides and I furrowed my brow, wondering how tiny midges withstand the Hebridean winds. He nodded and smiled, telling me, ‘midges aren’t really a problem here.’

We were certainly not the only campervan travelling through all the islands of the Outer Hebrides in May but there rarely felt too many. Some commentators suggest that responsible motorhome owners should stay away from these islands but, to me, that doesn’t seem helpful. Many businesses and small, family-run campsites rely on seasonal visitors for income. We booked the ferry, willingly spent our money in the campsites and frequented cafes and local shops as we travelled from north to south through all the Outer Hebrides from Lewis to Barra.

Stornoway, the main town on Lewis, was buzzing when we visited. The sun was shining but the buzz was mainly because of the huge cruise ship moored at the deep sea terminal. This gave the town a thriving cosmopolitan air and we met a large French group in a cafe, Australians in the woodland around Lews Castle and Canadians pottering around the shops.

We were on the road early to have the Calanais Stones (sometimes referred to as Calanais I) to ourselves. They sit on a ridge and silhouetted against the sky they are visible from a distance. If seen from above these Neolithic stones form a Celtic cross shape with a circle and lines radiating in four directions. Walking among these old stones in the quiet was a special experience. We also visited Calanais II and III, from where we could see Calanais I on the horizon. Here we chatted to two visiting enthusiasts who were finding fertility links among the stones.

Wildlife. Travelling this far north gave us a longer spring season. Plants that were growing in north Lancashire in April were still flowering on the Outer Hebrides in May. The trees were just unfurling their leaves and the birds were nesting. The bird song was a backdrop to every day in the Outer Hebrides. After a week, you almost take for granted that the call of curlews. lapwings and oystercatchers will be there. Skylarks launched themselves high in the sky as we walked through machair and moorland and on North and South Uist we dropped off to sleep to the sound of corncrakes [and even saw some]. The long light evenings were perfect for strolling.

Shops & Eating Out. After Stornoway there are no large supermarkets on the islands but there are excellent shops that sell a good variety of fresh food and staples, important as we cook for ourselves most of the time. We stopped off in lots of cafes, including the outstanding Oystercatcher Bakery on North Uist that served the tastiest cinnamon buns and creamy baked cheesecake. On Benbecula we had delicious and creative vegetarian meals in the elegant Dark Island Hotel. Part of a group of three hotels on the Outer Hebrides.

Beaches were, of course, a constant feature of our trip through all the islands and each one was magnificent, from the small bays below cliffs to the long sweeps of sand. On a sunny day the white sandy beaches washed by clear turquoise water are a great place to walk and stunning photographs are easy to take. I particularly liked the stipes of colours in the sand between the rusty groynes on the beach on the north side of the tombolo that links Point to the rest of Lewis. There was some shelter on this beach from the dunes, but on the other side of the tombolo I was almost blown off my feet!

The north side of the tombolo to Point, Lewis

Walking. We walked most days, using the Walk Highlands App, but the best walk for scenery and variety was with friends who live on Lewis. They took us around the rocky headland from the Garenin Blackhouse village. We were lucky to have sunshine and I stopped to take in the stunning clifftop scenery and the blue sea as often as I could. We walked to the small modern lighthouse, by the ruins of Laimishader, one of the first townships on Lewis to be cleared in the 18th century, and along an established track where we added our footprints to the many that had walked there before.

The rugged coast from Garenin Blackhouse Village

In Morecambe we have a Time and Tide Bell and having read there was one of these on Lewis, we had to visit. Whereas in Morecambe, the bell sits on the side of the Stone Jetty and only rings at a high tide, On Lewis, the bell is in the waves of Bosta Beach [top photograph in the collection below]. It made an excellent perch for a pair of common terns. These Time and Tide Bells were designed by Marcus Vergette, to highlight the tides and our relationship to the sea. Morecambe Bay is transformed twice a day by the tides and the difference between the two can be as much as 10 metres. In the Outer Hebrides I noticed how the tides only differed by a few metres.

It is no surprise on this western edge of the UK that the weather changes quickly. While we were on the Isle of Barra, the most southerly of the Outer Hebrides, we had persistent rain one day and blue skies the next, all accompanied by the wind! The rain and accompanying low cloud meant that we weren’t able to see any planes landing at the beach runway. The sunshine meant that Vatersay, joined to Barra by a causeway, was the only island where we might have agreed there were too many motorhomes and campervans on the islands, as every parking space was crammed with vans. The Vatersay cafe had a car park with space but their sign said campervans were not allowed as their insurance did not cover them for vehicles with gas on board! Not something I’ve ever seen before. We left the crowds of Vatersay and wandered along a deserted beach on Barra.

My final impression is the most notable, it is the wind! We have plenty of breezy and stormy days in Morecambe but they didn’t prepare me for the Outer Hebrides, where the wind was an almost constant companion. Even when the sky was blue and the sun shone all day, we were still wrapped up in layers due to the wind. My face was the only part of my body that got a tan! My top tip would be visit the Outer Hebrides in May but take your February or March wardrobe!

Four Days on the Special Scottish Island of Islay

Thrift flowering on a beach near Port Ellen

When I think back to our trip to the Isle of Islay, I can still hear the murmuring of waves on a soft sandy beach and the joyful song of sea birds; I can still feel the warmth of the sun on my arms and the gentle heat of the sand under my toes and I can still smell the sharp air with a hint of alcohol.

Is it always sunny on Islay? Probably not, but on our spring campervan trip to this Scottish west-coast island we had sunshine and blue skies every day, so I could be forgiven for thinking this was normal! Seduced by the delightful weather we took every opportunity to kick off our shoes along deserted bays and scramble around the craggy coast of Islay. On an island seemingly powered by whisky, we did visit some distilleries too!

We had four days on the island. This was dictated by ferry availability, but it was about the right amount of time for us.

Walks on Islay

All the walks we followed were found on the must-have Walk Highlands app. Their website is free to use and the app is only a small cost. On the app you can download walks to navigate off-line and I can’t praise this tool enough. Here are links to the walks we enjoyed.

The Distilleries Coast Walk from Port Ellen, 6.25km (one-way). If you only do one walk, then this is the one. It passes three historical distilleries, finishing at Ardbeg which has a great cafe and bar. You can walk back or catch the bus back from Ardbeg to Port Ellen.

Port Ellen Standing Stones Loop, from Port Ellen, 5km. A short walk mostly on inland lanes that buzzed with insects when we were there.

Carraig Fhada and Singing Sands from near Port Ellen, 4.5km. An unusual lighthouse, a fine sandy beach and, in May, rocks festooned with pink thrift, what more do you need!

Laggan Point Circuit from Bowmore, 14km. After you have left the industrial buildings behind and reached the beach, this is a fantastic walk for bird watching and beach combing. We walked around stranded sea stacks and had our picnic lunch watching seabirds on a deserted stretch of coast.

Saligo Bay beach and arches from Saligo, 5.25km. A scenic and geologically interesting, stretch of beach with craggy rocks festooned with thrift and yellow bird’s-foot trefoil. This westerly coast is breezier than the sheltered parts of Islay.

RSPB Reserves

The Oa Nature Reserve is reached on a narrow and bumpy road where even 20mph felt too fast! There was plenty of parking on our evening visit. We walked up to the American memorial that remembers the dead from two ships that sank in World War One. Here the coastal cliffs are impressive and across the sea we could see Northern Ireland. We saw wild goats, a hare and a hen harrier, its wings and underbody catching the evening sunlight.

Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve is a contrast to The Oa. There are two marked trails, one through the woodland, with hides looking over the loch and marshes and another that climbs over the moorland, with views out to further islands. On our visit we encountered hordes of butterflies and various birds.

Other Sights

Kildalton Cross, an 8th century carved Celtic cross with early Christian images, is arresting for its intricacy and age. The drive there is along around 12km of quiet road that becomes narrower and bumpier as you get nearer to the cross and church. It was fine for our 5m long campervan and when you arrive, like us, you will be surprised how much parking there is, particularly as we had it all to ourselves.

The Round Church in Bowmore is intriguing and, as you will probably find yourself in Bowmore for shopping or a cafe stop during your trip, worth taking the time to see. There isn’t loads of parking in Bowmore but there are small car parks off School Lane and towards the harbour. We parked in a viewpoint parking area off the A846 towards Bridgend about 10 minutes walk from the main shopping street. The Round Church looks over the main street and you can’t miss it.

Distilleries – There are lots of these and most of them offer tours. The tours for the big Islay names, like Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg and Bowmore fill up quickly, so if you want to visit a particular favourite distillery book early! We visited Kilchoman Distillery, a fairly new farm distillery that also grows barley for their distillery. The tour had all the smells and colour of every distillery tour and was delivered by a knowledgeable and engaging guide. As we were driving we went away with two small bottles of different whiskies and souvenir whisky glasses.

Bottlenose dolphins. We were lucky to see a small pod of dolphins from the Port Charlotte campsite. Walking on the shore looking across Loch Indaal sea loch, we watched common terns, shelducks and greylags. As we walked back we spotted a dark shape in the water and hoped. Then it leapt out of the water and we knew it was a bottlenose dolphin! Soon, we were watching a small group of dolphins and most of the campsite had joined us to enjoy their antics.

The Ferry

We tried to book our ferry in February for our trip in May. This wasn’t early enough and we struggled to find a crossing that had space for even our small campervan. This should be easier when the larger boat is working this route, but I would still suggest booking as soon as timetables are available in December or January.

The crossing from Kennacraig on Kintyre to Port Askaig takes around two hours. The route to Port Ellen is about 20 minutes longer. On a good day, the views of Jura and the Paps of Jura are mesmerising.

Campsites

In 2026 there should be two campsites on Islay. We stayed at:

Port Mòr Campsite near Port Charlotte – this coastal site has a limited number of electric hook-up pitches that are soon booked by organised holidaymakers and many more grassy and unspecified non-electric pitches. There are facilities in the building and a cafe. It is open March till the end of November and has a great view over Loch Indaal.

Port Ellen Motorhome Parking in Port Ellen is a new facility that opens in 2026. We had a look at the almost finished site and it seems it will be a tidy small site in a lovely position close to the beach, shops and eateries of Port Ellen. The site has EHU pitches and toilets and showers.

In addition, an unofficial but very lovely place to park a campervan or motorhome is at the head of Loch Indaal on the north side between Bridgend and Bruichladdich.

Springtime along the River Lune

Looking across the River Lune from Glasson Dock

The warmest day of the year [so far] was forecast, so getting out for a walk felt like a priority. But we had necessary chores. We split up and while my partner visited the doctor, I went to the supermarket and organised our picnic. A few hours of the morning were lost but not the whole day.

Catching the bus to Lancaster [with our pensioners bus passes] we were soon on the noon bus to Glasson Dock, along with a bunch of other people. Two women chatted about the perils of long-haul holidays; one person skipped off the bus at the garden centre and a young mum jiggled her baby on her lap, pointing out sights along the way.

Glasson Dock is a small tucked-away Lancashire village between Lancaster and Fleetwood, with a tidal harbour that is still in use as a port. It opened in 1787, when boats could no longer navigate the River Lune to Lancaster.

There are a number of reasons to visit Glasson Dock. The Quayside Cafe is a favourite of ours that serves excellent hearty food. Another fabulous local business is the Port of Lancaster Smokehouse shop and deli and we often pop in for some of their smoked cheeses. Pottering around the harbour looking at the boats whiles away time and the mobile food van is popular with bikers and cyclists. On this warm spring day the cafe was closed and we were focussing on some exercise, with a walk of about 10km along the footpath and cycle route that follows the River Lune back to Lancaster.

The path firstly winds around the salt marshes to Conder Green, where The Stork Hotel provides refreshments and you can pick up the old railwayline to Lancaster. We spotted groups of geese on the grass and a couple of redshank in the mud. The tide was mid-way between the morning low tide and high tide as we grabbed a bench overlooking the river to enjoy our lunch. We watched an easy-to-spot brilliant-white egret wading through the slowly filling tidal channels of the salt marsh, its feathers fluffed up by the blow-drying breeze. A heron flew unhurriedly overhead as we opened our flask, binoculars to hand.

The old railwayline is easy gravel walking. It is mostly lined with trees and in summer’s full leaf they limit the view of the river, but in early spring only the fresh hawthorne leaves are emerging and we could see across the river to Sunderland Point. Bluebells were already flowering in one stretch of woodland and the exuberant bird song filled my heart with joy.

After the rows of solar panels soaking up the sun we passed wet meadows where a lapwing wheeled across the river and landed, an oystercatcher close on its heels [if birds have heels]. Early butterflies fluttered across the path between flowers.

At Aldcliffe Hall Lane we left the cycle route for the path that runs along the dyke. We had a bird’s-eye view over the pools and we searched for a water rail as we’ve been lucky to glimpse one here before. No water rail but pairs of mallards and tufted ducks bobbed on the ponds and a moorhen appeared to half fly and half walk on water in a scurry. The wing beats of two swans had us craning our necks upwards to watch them fly over before landing with elegant splashes.

Blackthorn bushes were festooned with dense white flowers, competing for attention with the bright yellow of the gorse bushes. On this section of the path an optical illusion always makes me think we are heading straight for the Golden Ball Hotel, known locally as Snatchems. The pub is actually on the opposite bank of the Lune but the low river stays hidden from sight until the last disappointing moment. In my dreams there would be a bell by the path that would summon a skipper from the pub who would leap in the ferry and row across for a few pence.

There has been an inn here for hundreds of years and stories about how it gained the nickname ‘Snatchems’ float around the internet. One suggests it comes from Thatchems but the more colourful is that men were snatched from the pub and taken to a ship a few sailors short of a full crew. Imagine sobering up and finding yourself on the high seas!

On the opposite bank the grassed over refuse tip comes next and there are always horses grazing here. In the bright sun we both did a double take at a string of horses, all static on the curved horizon, at first glance they looked like cut-outs of horses.

By the time we neared the wharf of Lancaster the high tide had turned and the river was running full. Many of the quayside houses have been preserved and we stopped to look at the 18th century Old Customs House on St George’s Quay, built in the Palladian style with columns and portico. This building is now the Lancaster Maritime Museum and we intend to visit it one day!

We stopped at The Three Mariners Arms, claiming to be the oldest pub in Lancaster and dating back to the 15th century. It is tucked away, almost hidden by new flats and its outdoor seating was perfect for a springtime swift half before the bus home.

Findhorn Bay Holiday Park: Perfect Days

The villages along the Moray Firth in northeast Scotland are some of my favourite parts of the UK. One of these villages, Findhorn, we had visited before but never stayed at; it turned out to be an outstanding place for a few days camping. Findhorn sits on a sheltered bay at the end of the road, the village and harbour tucked into a corner of Findhorn Bay, where the river of the same name widens before reaching the sea. Just north of the village, the sea ebbs and flows onto a long sandy beach, lined with dunes and forest.

Findhorn has been a village for centuries, storms occasionally forcing it to uproot and today you stroll around its third location. The village is known for the Ecovillage and spiritual organisation that emerged from a small group moving to the Holiday Park here in the 1960s.

Findhorn combines history, location and landscape to make a perfect place for a holiday.

Findhorn Holiday Park

For us, the first essential is a good campsite and the one in Findhorn suited us well. The campsite has a circle of touring pitches with EHU, as well as pitches for tents. Everyone has use of luxurious modern individual bathrooms with good hot showers that were always clean. The touring area is separate from the static caravans and small lodges. There are washing up sinks, a laundry, wi-fi and the usual disposal points.

The Phoenix Shop is only a short walk from the pitches and sells a wide range of food and gifts. When we were there we had a voucher to save money in the shop and made good use of this on a shopping spree. The cafe is also not far away.

Walking from Findhorn

The Neighbourhood [1-6km or more]- The first thing I wanted to do once we had pitched up and had a brew was walk around some of the interesting community buildings and ecohouses. We wandered on paths through Wlkies Wood and among the sandy heath of gorse and low dunes to the beach. You can make this walk as long or as short as you wish, incorporating the village and harbour if you want to walk further.

The sand dunes between the campsite and the beach

To Burghead and Back [23km] – On a sunny morning with a May chill in the air, we walked to Burghead, the next village along the bay, and back. On the way out we followed the good path above the beach around the Kinross RAF site and then through pine woodland, stopping to watch yellow hammers in the trees, the sea beyond. We met few other walkers until we were near the Roseisle Beach car park. The view across the bay to Burghead, highlighted by the sunshine, is unbeatable. In Burghead we walked around the harbour and found the memorial to the wartime Shetland Bus, some personnel of which operated from Burghead. We walked up to the head, where the distinctive white former coastguard lookout sits [closed when we were there] and looked across the Moray Firth. On the way back we followed the shore, a shorter route and the sunshine encouraged us to take off our shoes and paddle through the surf. Groups of herring gulls and solo oystercatchers were on the beach and sand martins nested on the sandy bank below the forest.

Findhorn Harbour [Around 5km]- Walking to the village from the campsite you are soon following the river, with houses to your right. We sauntered, taking in the views from the stone piers across the water to Culbin Forest. We admired the boats and the old fishing village’s stone buildings. There are refreshment options and we ate ice-creams sitting on a bench overlooking the sheltered harbour. In summer a short ferry leaves here and crosses the river mouth to the vast Culbin Forest. Reaching the sands, we walked around the shingle spit of land that has formed in the mouth of Findhorn Bay. This hook-shaped land builds as the waves shift the sand and shingle, always drifting and progressing west. Heading east along the sandy beach dotted with stones and lined with colourful beach huts these were dwarfed by the vast sky. In the sea a seal surfaced and its whiskery head watched us. We left the beach for a track and grassy path through dunes and sandy heath packed with flowering gorse and made our way through the eco-community houses to our campervan.

A Short Drive Away

Brodie Castle – If you want to take your campervan out for a drive, Brodie Castle is about 15 minutes drive away. When we are in this area we like to stop at Brodie Countryfare cafe and shop for coffee or lunch first. There is parking at the castle and you can visit the sprawling pink building [it is run by the National Trust for Scotland]. We prefer to stay outdoors and explore the grounds. The stroll down the tree-lined avenue to the pond gives you ample opportunity to snap a photograph of the castle. There are shady tree-lined paths around the pond and chances to see the ducks and swans. Back at the castle there is plenty to see in the gardens, with traditional planting and the Playful Garden, which is as much fun as it sounds! No doubt designed for children, no adult can resist messing about on the giant white rabbit.

Burghead – If you didn’t walk there [see above] then drive and spend time enjoying this village that is full of character and stories. There is parking near the harbour on Station Road. A short detour on your drive would take in Roseisle Country Park where you can walk through the tall trees of the forest to the beach and appreciate the view to Burghead.

Forres & Nelson’s Tower – About 10 minutes drive from Findhorn is Forres and as you approach the town you might spot Nelson’s Tower on the top of Cluny Hill. There are a number of car parks in Forres, including the one on High Street and it is just a 15-minute hike uphill through the trees to this 21-metre-high octagonal structure built in the 19th century to commemorate Nelson’s victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. The tower is often open to visitors in the afternoons and after climbing the 96 steps you can enjoy a view over the town. Afterwards, take some time to explore the pleasant town centre, finding the Tolbooth and the mercat cross

Other Overnight Options

Findhorn West Beach allows campervans to overnight for a charge. Places must be pre-booked and there are toilets.

The End of Reading Written Journalism?

Spending time getting lost in the story of a good novel is never time wasted. I also learn while reading non-fiction books about nature, people, walking and places. Reading punctuates my day and is my comfortable time. In between these reading episodes I read newspapers [yes, we still buy a paper at least once a week] and magazines and on my phone or the laptop I read blogs, newsletters and substacks that interest me.

I also write. Occasionally I write on this blog and I write a reducing number of magazine articles. The latter are illustrated with photographs I take and spend time editing. While there doesn’t seem any evidence that books will disappear, some are suggesting that written newsletters and blogs will soon be history.

I was reading James Marriott’s substack article recently. In this he refers to an article by Derek Thompson from October 2025, where he asserts that everything is now television. The suggestion is that many would rather watch a YouTube video than read an article. We may all recognise how Social Media has lost its social side of keeping up with friends and seeing their photographs and is now dominated by people watching videos from people they don’t know. Apparently, even podcasts have become visual entertainment these days and audio-only podcasts are becoming obsolete. And now there are infinite numbers of AI generated videos to watch!

When Derek Thompson writes that everything is now television, he explains:

When I say “everything is turning into television,” what I mean is that disparate forms of media and entertainment are converging on one thing: the continuous flow of episodic video.

He is concerned that we have lost our ability to be on our own, read a paragraph and think about what it means.

I love watching television and listening to the radio but I find I don’t have the patience to sit through non-professional videos, even on subjects I am interested in. I find even short videos move too slowly , have too much repetition and too many words that aren’t really needed. I could read the content of a 10-minute video in a much shorter time and not be distracted with moving images of the speaker and the background. But it seems I am out-of-step with the rest of the country.

And don’t get me started on the joy of looking in detail at a well-composed photograph!

Search on the internet and there are plenty of articles and podcasts discussing whether we are seeing the end of written journalism. But we aren’t there yet. I receive a lot of written blogs and substacks every week. I read these ideas and thoughts at my own pace and find inspiration and curiosity in the words of others. I hope written pieces like this will continue as long as I am on this planet.

According to WordPress this is a three-minute read. If you have read this far, thank you and well done!

2025 Spending Reviewed: The Financial Independence Experiment is Over

In 2017 we jumped off a cliff. We left our jobs and, having no income, lived off our savings, hoping they would last nine years. Gradually, since 2020, various pensions have begun to pay out and we have started to relax, as it became clear the experiment was going to be succesful. In 2025, for the first time our income was more than our spending, an event we haven’t seen since our nine-to-five days of 2016. And this exciting event happened before I became eligible for my state pension which came in at the end of 2025. Apart from my occasional travel writing earnings, our income is now predictable.

Although our income might be considered low by many standards, after having nothing it seems like a fortune and I no longer consider our spending frugal. Those living on the state pension alone are the pensioners who are the real shoestring retirees.

My review of our spending for 2025 will just give some highlights. We are still a couple living in the northwest of England and our spending is very much individual and flawed.

Here is how our budget breaks down:

Essentials – total £9,599 [29% of total spending]

Food – £4,675 [2024 £4,970] – We seem to have bucked the national trend and spent less on our supermarket shop in 2025. Maybe this is my canny use of the savings available in the Lidl App?

Utilities, insurance & phones for a 2-bed 57.2 sq mtrs [615.7 sq feet] bungalow – £4,156 [2024 £4,131] – Not much change here either!

Our health – £768 [2024 £736] – Specs and dentists and some over-the-couter meds soon add up.

The money we spend on the essentials above are, in theory, the minimum we need to survive.

Experiences

Holidays [still our favourite spending line] – £8,783, [2024 £7,358] – We pushed the boat out and had a cycling trip to southern Poland in 2025, taking trains across Europe. We have also been away in our campervan in the UK and stayed in hotels occasionally.

Restaurants & cafes – £3,661, [2024 £3,554] – Not a lot of change, we still like watching the world go by over a coffee.

Running the campervan [servicing & insurance etc] – £2,634 [2024 £1,975] – A campervan continues to be a luxury but one we love and we don’t have a car. This total does include £1,400 for a new lithium leisure battery for our campervan and a new van battery.

Diesel for the above ‘van – £888 [2024 £1,076 ] – We have travelled fewer miles and diesel has reduced in price.

Tickets for concerts, football & attractions – £1,029 [2024 £1,081] – This includes films, rock concerts and U3A classes.

Public transport costs – £1,190 [2024 £1,017] – Cycling and walking are our first choice for getting around, with the bus and train next. We now both have a bus pass and, even with the capped bus fares, these will save us around £500 a year.

Other Spending

Along with the above we spent money on maintaining our house, clothes and gifts and charities.

TOTAL SPENDING FOR 2025 – £33,024 [2024 – £33,840]

I am pleased that our spending in 2025 was similar to 2024 and below our £35,500 budget, even with the splash-out holiday to Poland.

This total doesn’t include the cost of installing a heat pump this summer, an amazing bit of kit that is keeping us warm all day and is using about a third of the energy of our gas boiler. The whole heat pump story might be a separate blog post!

Let me know in the comments below how your budget matched your spending in 2024 and your hopes for 2025.

Campervan Touring Around the Vendée & Coastal Loire-Atlantique

Heading north into the heart of the Vendée we were sure we would find cooler weather but the storm was a surprise. My smile faded when the receptionist insisted that we walk around the campsite to find a pitch. Peering outside, lightning was flashing, thunder was rolling and rain poured in sheets and I really would have preferred to take the ‘van around the large site. But keen to get the kettle on, we set off, sheltering in the sanitary blocks when the storm was in full force. The weather wasn’t conducive to finding the ideal pitch but I eventually returned dripping to reception with a number.

The rain had spring cleaned the Vendée and the next day we hiked around the nearby Lac du Jaunay on easy-to-follow paths that undulated around the reservoir’s wooded valley. The birds sang their bestsellers, fresh-scented flowers perfumed the air and buzzards soared above our heads. Passing a shuttered chateau we rested on a rocky outcrop overlooking the water and watched a group slowly glide around our headland on inflated float tubes, languorously combining fishing with eating sandwiches.

We are not even beginner-level table tennis players but always have a couple of paddles and balls in the Blue Bus as European campsites often have outdoor ping-pong tables. Spotting one in the field near our pitch we wandered across, quickly giving up playing seriously as the breeze repeatedly whipped the ball across the table top into the long grass! We giggled as time after time one of us raced to retrieve the ball!

As well as walking, we cycled from the campsite to the winding trail around Coëx that led along the shore of a small reservoir to open fields where hares lolloped and pools where egrets silently strutted. Another route took us back to the banks of Lac du Jaunay and a shallow inlet where a nursery of mallard ducklings stayed close to mum. Hearing a clamour of bird calls we searched the surrounding trees and spotted a noisy group of cormorants shuffling and fidgeting among the branches. Climbing out of the valley we cycled up a shady sunken track and stumbled on an unusual pilgrimage chapel near Martinet. La Chapelle de Garreau has an ornate outdoor ringing chamber on a balcony below the bell tower. Inside were colourful abstract stained glass windows and paintings celebrating a local legend that Mary was seen here washing clothes in the River Jaunay.

From Lac du Jaunay we cycled up a sunken track

After the pastoral calm of the Vendée interior, La Plaine sur Mer on the Côte de Jade had a breezy buzz. Geared up for active holidays, we explored the area around Saint-Gildas Point on foot and bikes. From small harbours and long sandy beaches where red poppies danced in the breeze we reached Saint-Gildas Point, a boating paradise that reverberated with flapping sails and clanking chains. We ambled around the jumble of concrete bunkers, remnants of the Second World War German occupation, and looking north across the mouth of the River Loire we could see the huge port of Saint-Nazaire and towards Batz-sur-Mer.

Beyond the point the landscape changes as the coastal path meanders around sheltered coves and bigger waves attract surfers. We passed wooden shacks perched on stilts above the sea reached by slatted pontoons. Fishermen apparently suspend a net from poles on these pêcheries to catch plaice. A series of information boards showed how artists have interpreted these picturesque views over the centuries and we admired the shoreline houses from Victorian turreted mansions with balconies to modernist concrete and glass and cute bungalows with shutters. The sea was the brightest blue and clusters of yellow flowers clung to the rocks. We sat on a promontory watching terns diving in the sea and at La Grande Plage in Préfailles we kicked off our sandals and crossed the gritty sand to paddle in the cool Atlantic water.

Red poppies danced in the breeze near La Plaine sur Mer

A network of inland farm tracks took us south of La Plaine sur Mer to a natural area of coastal moorland that slopes down to the sea cliffs and contrasts with the built-up seaside. Butterflies sweep among the abundant thistles and gorse bushes and the aroma of sweet-smelling grass after haymaking hung in the air. We followed sandy paths under wind-gnarled trees to secluded beaches where families played and found our own isolated viewpoint for a picnic

Crossing the impressive bridge that arches over the River Loire at Saint-Nazaire we reached Batz-sur-Mer, where friends of ours live. The seaside towns of Batz-sur-Mer and Le Croisic were once craggy islands and are now chic resorts, popular with Parisians in search of cooler climes in summer. The beaches are beautiful and the lively towns abound with stylish shops.

Our friends live near to the campsite and we were soon sitting in their sunny garden catching up over drinks. Our friends are impeccable hosts and that evening they surpassed expectations. Collecting us in their open-top car we enjoyed an evening of French elegance and taste, beginning with cocktails at a beach bar. Sitting with a ritzy cocktail, a view of the sea and my toes in the warm sand I was living the high life. We ate in a restaurant overlooking Le Croisic’s harbour where we were welcomed with glasses of pink fizz and an appetiser that got the taste buds working overtime. The owners were expecting two vegetarians and they had prepared a delicious menu that pleased every sense. Our main meal, a creamy risotto with roasted vegetable garnishes, was a triumph of colour, flavour and artistry served in a classy black bowl. It was so perfect I savoured every mouthful and didn’t want it to end.

The next day we drove north through Brittany to Saint-Malo with a campervan full of deliciously warm memories of France and friends.

Saint-Gildas Point is a boating paradise

We stayed at:

Camping RCN La Ferme du Latois – near the village of Coëx, this is a large, peaceful and green campsite with ponds and trees.

We also stayed in two (very different) campsites from the Flower Campings group.

Flower Camping La Guichardière – near to La Plaine-sur-Mer and the sea, a well-run site with hedged pitches.
Flowers Camping Les Paludiers – we use this site because of its proximity to our friends but it is a bit tired. It is a rambling and sandy site that is popular but the facilities need refurbishment.