I thought using my phone for data and calls in Europe was a simple transaction nowadays. I have a contract with a fair amount of data, calls and texts and I can use this just as I would at home in the UK. This makes so many things easier as we travel around Europe, we can google for local veggie restaurants, check the opening times of attractions and the weather and call home and we thank the EU for this convenience on a daily basis. But, on our recent trip to Spain and Portugal I found that on a ferry using your mobile phone gets more complicated and expensive mistakes can easily be made.
I was surprised to find I had a data signal on my mobile phone as we sailed out of Bilbao but naively assumed that connections had improved so much they could now reach out to the Bay of Biscay. I had switched my phone on to pick up the ship’s wi-fi but as I had a data signal I decided I didn’t need to go through the rigmarole of signing in to that. Then a text message pinged up telling me I had spent £4+ on data outside my allowance, then another text with a higher amount, then another and so on. There was no explanation as to how I had gone over my data allowance and I spent a few frantic minutes checking my phone account to see if I could clarify what I had done but as the text messages mounted up I [sensibly] switched the phone off for the rest of the ferry journey.
I switched my phone on again as we docked in to Portsmouth. The last text message I had received informed me I had spent £34+ on data outside my allowance. I checked my data usage again and couldn’t see how I had spent that, my data usage was well within the gigabytes I pay for on my contract.
I rang Three, my phone operator, as Mr BOTRA drove us away from the south coast to see what this £34 additional charge was about. The operator very efficiently informed me that with data roaming switched on [as it is quite safely all over Europe] when on a ferry or cruise ship my phone will automatically seek any connections. When the phone can’t find a two, three or four G network it will seek out a satellite marine mobile provider via the ship; this was the first I had heard about marine mobile. It seems these marine mobile providers are outside a normal data allowance contract and so are charged separately and those on Britanny Ferries that we were travelling on are very expensive charges [although they do warn you about these charges on their website].
It is some consolation that these data roaming charges, as this article suggests, have caught other people out as well as me, with some ending up with bills much more than the £34 I now had to pay.
Fortunately my story of ignorance has a happy ending for a frugal traveller as Three, noting that I have been a loyal customer for many years, refunded the £34 I owed for the few minutes my telephone was connected to the marine mobile satellite. They did this without me having to ask [I was still in shock] and quickly, so Three deserve a big thank you.
Next time I will just keep my phone switched off on a ferry and relax and enjoy the view.
Newly retired and all the time in the world we were back on the road in our blue campervan. We set off south in April sunshine hopeful we would find beautiful and interesting places and have some fun. Just being in the ‘van is relaxing and we were soon in a meandering frame of mind, stopping when we found somewhere lovely, making coffee among gorgeous scenery and taking strolls to interesting places. Our first night was at the popular aire at Pont au Mousson, our second in the lovely Bourgogne wine producing town of Beaune, stopping on the way to stroll around Langres, on its stunning hilltop position. We passed through pretty honey-coloured villages where men chatted outside the Marie, drove by large fields hunted by buzzards and under trees dripping with mistletoe.
Leaving the vineyards of Beaune we got mixed up with the circus vehicles in the next town, around us were vans and cars blowing their horns to announce their arrival. We used the aire at Bourget-du-Lac and had a sunny afternoon walk to the lakeside, the ruined Chateau St Thomas II and the bird hide overlooking lovely pools busy with cormorants, red-crested pochard and one great egret and we watched marsh harriers flying low as they hunted. We also walked in to Les Bourget-du-Lac and found the priory with its stately garden.
The weather was being so kind to us and after resisting the urge to stop in the Ecrins we treated ourselves to a couple of nights in Digne les Bains to give us time to stretch our legs after days of mostly driving. We were now among the rocky Mediterranean landscape rich with herbs. Our early evening stroll from the campsite took us to the large orderly cemetery of the Cathedral de Notre Dame du Bourg; we strolled around the fascinating graves enjoying the glimpses in to people’s lives. Later as we ate sitting outside the snow covered mountains at the end of the valley were pink from the setting sun.
The campsite in Digne les Bains was perfectly placed for the lovely circular three chapels walk. The path with signposts followed a lightly-shaded path through small oak trees and broom, the path edges blooming with cowslips, thyme and marjoram. The route is only around five kilometers but follows a steep rocky path to give great views over the town. Chapel number one, St Vincent, is a large church-like structure above the town. Continuing uphill we found chapel number two, the Chapelle de la Croix, a tiny chapel perched on the highest point at 870 metres. We ate our lunch enjoying the panoramic views and the peace, just the butterflies busily flitting around the flowers and small lizards taking in the sun. We followed the ridge and then took the path downhill, meeting a group of mountain bikers struggling up the craggy path. Chapel number three, Notre Dame, is in the trees just above Digne. This small ruined church has a shrine underneath it in a cave. We found cooling ice-creams in Digne before walking back to the ‘van.
From Digne les Bains we drove through the stunning scenery of Castellane and Grasse. The road climbed over cols and took us through woodland, the landscape becoming more arid and more dramatic. We stopped to take in the staggering vistas on a mountain road; I was awestruck by the landscape of white layered limestone rocks dotted with attractive Provencal farmhouses. Our final night in France was in Cagnes sur Mer before we headed in to Italy to catch our ferry to Greece.
In the mountainous Ecrins the houses in the villages huddle together for warmth and companionship around a winding road, joined by steep narrow cobbled lanes and steps. The houses are built from rough stone with steep roofs and small windows. Typically, the windows have shutters and the traditional stone houses have a sort of wooden balcony for storing logs.
Above the village of La Grave the villages cling to the hillside, looking as if they could slide down at any time. Around the villages the pattern of the old farmed terraces can still be seen in the meadows. Each village has a church in a similar style and there are also stone wayside shrines on the roads between the villages, you might also find the communal oven and you will always find a water tap of fresh mountain water. As you climb higher the houses in these villages are less likely to be occupied all year round. In Le Grave we stayed at the wonderful Camping de la Meije just a few minutes from the village.
In Vallouise and Venosc we admired the sundials, including the beautiful 19th century Zarbula sundial on a magnificent villa in Vallouise. You can follow the Sundial trail through the region to find more.
We toured around the Ecrins National Park in an anti-clockwise direction over a couple of weeks and camped in five different valleys, each one having its own personality and each offering spectacular mountain walking. We used the Cicerone guide to the area for walks which has ideas for each valley.
We enjoyed all the walking but there are a couple of favourites worth mentioning. From Venosc we drove to the mountain village of La Berarde, walking 11 km to the Refuge du Chatelleret at 2,232 m and back with 520m of climbing. The route starts steeply and becomes more gentle along the valley on a pleasant sandy path with juniper and birch trees and plenty of flowers. Higher up the landscape become more rugged and with waterfalls and fewer shrubs adn the occasional snow field.
From Vallouise we drove to the large car park at Pre de Madame Carle and walked up the stunning and dramatic Glacier Noir path. More details about our trip are in my MMM article here.
You might enjoy my second post about where to see marmots in the Ecrins.
There was no one at reception & only one other camper so we left money in an envelope. This grassy site has some trees, the ground fairly hard, facilities clean & water hot. Small village with some shops but no bakery. Walks from the site.
We are back from our annual fix of European culture, weather and food. As well as enjoying excellent and unbeatable mountain walking in the Ecrins National Park in south-east France [don’t worry no one seems to know where this is – find Grenoble and go slightly to the south and east], we found some adorable wildlife.
The Alpine marmots were abundant in the Ecrins and we saw at least one or two every time we were out walking. Sometimes we firstly heard a marmot, calling out a warning high-pitched whistle and searching the rocky landscape we would spot the look-out marmot on a rock, sitting up on its hind legs apparently warning the other marmots of our presence but really drawing attention to the presence of marmots. At other times we would spot them scampering low across a meadow or moving easily down steep craggy hillsides, twitching their stubby tails as they move and then disappearing down a handy burrow. At Pré de Madame Carle the marmots were pottering around the car park and finding shade under the cars.
If you don’t want to climb the steep paths of the Ecrins to see marmots, there are a group that are easy to find at Mont-Dauphin, south of Briançon. Since we last visited here in 2009 [Mr BOTRA had lots of fun making the video embedded in the blog post at the time] the humans have been managed so that the marmots can now run in and out of their burrows freely and avoid the humans if they wish to. Marmots hibernate for more months than they are out and about so you need to be around in summer to see them.